5:30 a.m.
Granada Town Square
I woke up with a sunburn. Not a bad one but bad enough to give me a scare. I had lathered the sunscreen on yesterday but 95 degree clear days require special attention, especially when you're out on the water or walking along the beach. The real diligence begins today. Margot, I promise.
Today marks the official kickoff of Holy Week, the Semana Santa. Even at this hour, fireworks are flaring, periodic explosions jarring the town. I'm sitting at a park table next to the 19th century Spanish cathedral, a striking colonial structure marked by its yellow and white bell towers and Mediterranean tile dome. In a couple of hours this place is sure to be hopping. For now, I am enjoying the peace as a few people are sweeping the streets and vendors are setting up their craft and food carts for what surely will be a busy day.
I'm feeling depleted from yesterday's adventures. The good kind of depleted, as in having had a full rewarding day. It began with a 5:30 sunrise, a hotel breakfast and then a taxi ride to a marina down the lake a bit. I rented a kayak for two hours and ventured out into the choppy waters of Lake Nicaragua. The woman at the boat shop tried to persuade me to join a guided tour. She said that due to the strong underwater currents, I would be better off with someone who knew exactly where to go.
I was adamant in my refusal. She acquiesced and then forewarned me that heading out would be ok but paddling back would be a challenge. She cautioned me not to get too close to the islands as there are lots of large rocks just below the surface.
I thanked her for her advice and headed out on my solo adventure. A group paddle just didn't sound appealing. Nor did the additional expense. I wanted to explore by myself.
It was really fun. I was careful to follow which inlets the local fisherman were taking. There were indeed lots of shoals but I was careful to keep a close eye for those too.
The one thing I didn't anticipate was how wet my day pack would get. My Bluetooth earbuds in the side pocket got drenched and they short circuited. Too bad. I really liked those things.
The water was indeed choppy but nothing I couldn't handle. The view ahead was as far as I could see. To my right the mountains kissed the the lakeside. Fisherman in their wood carved boats trolled their lines. Dozens of little islands were scattered some with run down sheds on them. Others with expansive abodes. The mixture seemed odd given the islands were the same size and views were identical. Maybe gentrification in its early stages?
The two hours flew buy. I got a few blisters and had a good workout from fighting the tides. A great way to start the trip.
I opted to walk rather that take a cab back. It took about 90 minutes, most of it along the shore. It was fun watching the families enjoying their Saturday picnics and the
teenage boys playing beach soccer. I wondered why the girls were just watching. This is the 21st century after all.
Back in town I stopped for lunch at the Garden Cafe before heading back to the hotel. Abbott, the front desk clerk, suggested that I would enjoy a trip to the Masaya Volcano. By now it was 3:30. The van was leaving in 30 minutes. Since I had woken up early, I declined, opting for a dip in the pool and a nap on a comfy lounge chair.
While in the pool I changed my mind. I knew I would regret not seeing the volcano and that I should push myself. I could hang poolside anywhere. I thought; George get your butt up and go to the volcano. So I did.
Th volcano was an hour's drive away. Once there, we had to wait an hour to get it. It was worth it. We climbed to a perch above the erupting volcano. The steam was rising, the lava was bubbling, making a loud gurgling sound. Amazing.
We had 13 people crammed into the van. I was sitting next to two young women, one a 22 year old from Holland, the other a 26 year old from Austria. They were both traveling solo through Central America. One had been on the road for three months and the other for two. Neither would be returning home anytime soon.
This is common for Europeans but it worries me. When I asked if they ever felt unsafe, they looked at me as if I had asked a really dumb question. I opted not to share the story of a family friend who's daughter was murdered recently in Panama doing essentially what they were doing. Had I shared the gory details, it might have shaken some sense into the. Please girls, be careful out there.
By the time I got home, it was after eight. A bite, an after dinner rum and then to bed. I slept like a baby.
The bike group gathers for the first time at 6 p.m. tonight. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone. Until then, who knows. I'm sure it will be a fulfilling day.
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Location:Granada Parque Central
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