Juanilama, Costa Rica
Happy Easter, everyone.
As I said in my toast to the locals after the dance last night, I miss being with my family on Easter. However, if I can't be with them, there is no place I'd rather be than spending it here in this beautiful country with these wonderful people. These folks have been incredibly welcoming. We've eaten together, washed dishes together, prayed together and danced together. Four nice ways to interact, don't you think?
I'm lying in bed with the window open listening to the pouring rain. It rained hard overnight and the forecast has more in store for the next few days, at least here in Costa Rica. I'm not sure what the conditions will be in Panama.
Last night was the second I spent at the home of Sandra and her family. It's just Freddie, Antonio and me here. Antonio is sleeping and eating on the bus. He prefers it that way. The others are staying with a family down the road. How lucky am I. I'm in this nice house and getting to talk with Sandra, via Freddy, enjoying her children, and having a bedroom to myself.
Oddly, Sandra's husband disappears whenever we arrive home. He wasn't at the dinner-dance on Friday night, he wasn't at breakfast yesterday and he stayed home when we went to the Saturday evening Easter Mass, the community dinner and the night time party. It seems strange but is not for me to judge. The husband at the other house has been the same way.
We had a leisurely breakfast yesterday, just Freddie, Sandra and me. She served fresh mango juice, eggs, bananas, plantains and fresh, hand-dripped Costa Rican coffee. Delicious. We had such a nice meal together that Freddy, Antonio and I were 30 minutes late in picking up the others.
Mid-morning we took an hour bus ride to the Cano Negro Wildlife Reserve. The Reserve is home to monkeys, sloths, birds, caiman, alligators, crocodiles, "Jesus Christ" lizards (famous for their ability to run on water for extended periods of time before sinking.) We took a 90 minute tour and saw all of those things and more.
It was amazing. Bird watching is Fredder's passion. He pointed out dozens of species along the way and not once did he refer to his book. He knew them all by name.
There were dozens of caiman and many alligators and crocks. Our little boat pulled along side many of them. We were way too close for my comfort, a mere few feet at times.
Afterwards, we had a nice lunch at the local restaurant. From there we biked a short 20 kilometers back to the main road.
Given the short distance, John and I aired it out. He is an animal. I biked as hard as I could, staying with him for five miles. Then he kicked it into a another level. I couldn't respond. He finished well ahead of me. Hopefully I'll get another shot at him this week. The road was extremely rocky. I think my brain is still rattling around in my skull.
When we returned, I took a shower and then Sandra laid out some coffee, pancakes and sour cream for a late afternoon snack. She's an angel. She also did my laundry (for a tiny fee). That was an act of true altruism. Not even I would have touched that putrid stuff.
An extra bonus; I've never seen underwear folded so nicely.
The 90 minute Easter Mass was simple but lovely. I didn't understand a word of it but that didn't matter. It was heartfelt. I felt connected spiritually, thinking mostly of my family, Molly's impending wedding and how lucky I am to lead the life I do.
The church is a single room structure with a corrugated tin roof, half height iron rod walls with crosses painted white, and a cement floor. There were 16 pews, mostly filled with restless children.
The kid's art donned the walls. A solo guitarist played Central American folk music and a camp fire crackled just outside the door. Very peaceful. Juanilama is a tight knit community and the church plays a big part in it. None of the others in the bike group went to the service. It's too bad. They missed something special.
The service was followed by another communal dinner and then two more hours of dancing. John, David and I danced most of the night with our ad hock dance instructor and with local women who's husbands, like the others, were elsewhere.
We learned some more salsa steps, the moranga and a couple of other dances. Our shirts were sopping by the end of the night. It was a blast. I wish we could gave persuaded Bill and Crystal to join. Margaret stayed in her room all night. Something was clearly bothering her on the bus ride back from the Wildlife Reserve. I hope she can resolve it and let it go. This place is too special to spend time stewing.
I have lots of packing to do before breakfast so adios for now.
It will be sad to bid farewell to our wonderful hosts but it's time to move on.
Happy Easter everyone!
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Location:Juanilama, Costa Rica
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