Our Last Supper

Monday, April 24, 2017, 4:45 a.m.
Panama City, Tocuman International Airport

My alarm was set for 3:55 a.m. but as is usual when I travel, I woke up well before then. I was out of bed around 3, killed some time before heading down to the lobby at 4:00, 15 minutes early. My driver was already waiting for me. Alriiiight!!!
We were at the airport by 4:30. After giving the driver a $10 tip on a $30 fare (he almost fainted), I went inside, checked my bag, breezed through security (full water bottle and all), and headed for the Copa Club, where I am now sitting outside the door, waiting for its 5:30 opening. There's a young traveler across from me, lying on the tile floor, head propped up by his sleeping mat, snoring like a grizzly, clutching his backpack as if it's full of uncut diamonds. It's probably just his dirty laundry.
I have a 7:15 flight to Miami where I will have a couple hour layover before flying on to Boston. It's been a great trip but I'm looking forward to getting back. There's no place like home.
We arrived in Panama City early Saturday night. We were dropped off at our modest (I'm being nice) hotel, took a quick shower and headed out for dinner. We walked along the Malecon to a loud, outdoor, fenced in seafood restaurant a couple of miles away. The Malecon, just like the one in Havana, Cuba, is a wide walkway along the waterfront near the city center. There is a stone wall where friends and lovers hang out. On Saturday nights, it is mostly families; strolling, sitting, eating and hanging out. There were vendors selling food, chiclets, flowers, lighted gadgets, souvenirs and almost anything else you can think of. It was well after dusk and the modern skyscrapers illuminated the sky, their colorful reflections glistening in the Gulf of Panama.


I could have hung out there all night but the others were famished, walking at a brisk pace to get to dinner.
I was a bit put off by Fredder's restaurant choice. I told him that I didn't eat seafood, but he lost sight of that in his excitement to have some himself.
There is a back story to Fredder and his restaurant selections. Early in the trip he made a big deal of the fact that he stood his ground against Intrepid Travel, saying that he wouldn't work unless his compensation included three paid meals per day.
Despite Fredder's paid meals, throughout the trip, he has selected restaurants, many of them quite drab, on the basis of whether his meal would be comped for bringing in the group. I'm fine with him making an extra buck, especially when he makes just $40 per day. However, I'd rather he research the restaurant options better or allow us in on the decision-making.
At the seaside restaurant, while the others ordered large plates of king shrimp, red snapper and seafood platters, I nursed a couple of Balboa beers and a Diet Coke. It didn't have to be like that. We could have easily found a restaurant with a wider menu.
Moreover, I wonder whether Fredder has been pocketing a portion of the snack budget. Other bike touring companies are extreme in their snack offerings with their vans frequently setting up tables of fruit, crackers, cheeses, candy, juices and lots of other stuff. On this trip, we usually have a snack stop once, for a piece or two of fruit. Sometimes its bananas. Other times it's watermelon, papaya or pineapple. Yesterday, because he didn't go to the grocery store beforehand, Fredder stopped our van so he could run in and buy us each a granola bar.
I would expect, in these hot and humid conditions they would provide lots more sustenance along the way. I'm told that other Intrepid tours do. Why not this one?
Yesterday, Sunday, we had another early start. We were picked up by the van and transited 30 minutes to the Soberania National Park, a huge wildlife reserve south of the city. We were planning on taking a leisurely 20 mile bike ride through the park but as bad luck would have it, it was closed. It was Earth Day, they were having their annual celebration and weren't allowing cyclists in.
Instead, we ventured up a two lane road for about 45 minutes to the Rainforest Discovery Center. It was a nice ride albeit with some occasional, manageable car traffic.
We turned on to a short, two kilometer rocky, dirt road and made our way up to the registration area where we dismounted. Fredder spent some time adjusting Bill's gears. He then hopped on the bike and took off down the road. We thought he was testing the gears but in fact he was retracing the route to the tarmac road where the van was parked. He wanted his trusted telescope and tripod for our bird exploration. 10-15 minutes later he was back, sweating profusely from his round trip sprint to the van.
Upon his re-arrival, Margaret declared that she wanted her iPhone camera, which also, was back in the van. It was an odd declaration, one of unabashed entitlement. Not for a nanosecond did she consider how Fredder would feel about making another round trip to the van or about us, who would have to wait again, in the stifling humidity.
As you can imagine, her demand didn't go over very well. Fredder politely resisted. Margaret had a bit of a tantrum about it. Her husband, John, had his compact Canon camera with him for her to share. For Margaret, that wouldn't suffice. She wanted her own three year old iPhone and she wouldn't back down.
As we've seen before on this trip, John's mild protest to Margaret's behavior was met with a harsh counter-blast. Ouch. As someone else on the trip said, "That man has qualified for sainthood ten times over".
We all remained quiet to the drama. Good ol Fredder, hopped back on his steed for another trip to the van. When I quietly whispered to John, "Why can't she use your camera?", he simply replied; "Don't ask." It was the only time I ask him about her. I would loved to have learned more. OMG.
After Fredder returned the second time, he caught his breath, bought a Coke and then set off to the trail. We followed for what ended up being an hour avian tour.
Fredder's bird knowledge far exceeds that of anyone I've ever met. It's his passion and he lights up when he talks about the various species and their unique habits. Birding, if that's what you call it, is not my thing. However, I am happy to go along, appreciate the color and sounds and watch Fredder bask in his jungle glory.
I must say, Fredder has this incredible knack for being able to see small birds and animals, unmoving, through dense brush, at great distances. It's uncanny. When he sees one, he whips out the scope, sets it up and focuses it, so that we can enjoy parts of the Central American animal life that we otherwise would never see.
Before we were done, we saw a variety of hummingbirds,


toucans and blue crown mot mots. 😊 We also saw a few anteaters, monkeys, sloths and butterflys. The best part of the tour was climbing the tower that rises above the tree canopy. The view of the surrounding area was spectacular.


When back on our bikes, we retraced our route back to the national park where we got on the van and departed for the Panama Canal.
The Canal was out of this world, just like you would imagine. Three huge locks and 48 miles connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.


This engineering marvel saves ships 6,000 miles of extra travel, significant expense and probably countless annual lives, avoiding the dangerous straights around Cape Horn below South America.
We stayed at the Canal for a few hours, had lunch, toured the museum and waited for large ships to go through the locks. Simply amazing.
Last night we had our "Last Supper". Most of us ate steak, prepared in different styles. The beer flowed, once again. David presented our group tip, with some generous remarks. Fredder responded in kind, acknowledging each of us with a personal antidote. Both acknowledged that mistakes were made along the trip. Appropriately, the mistakes were described as learning opportunities, a nice way to position them.
Another great adventure is now in the books with new friends, rich memories and an sprouting excitement for my next adventure, wherever that might be.
Thanks loyal readers for following along and for your notes along the way.
Adios amigos.
-Jorge


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Location:Panama City, Panama

Bambuda Castle for dinner

April 22, 2017, 2 p.m.
Somewhere on the Road to Panama City


Another couple of nights in paradise. Yesterday we did no cycling. Instead, all of us, except Fredder, paid the $65 to join a bunch of mostly young international travelers on a white water rafting trip about a 75 mile drive from Boquete, just near the Costa Rica border.
It was a fun adventure but the river wasn't as challenging as we'd hoped, mostly class 2 and 3 rapids, with just a few exhilarating, people ejecting swirls.
We were surrounded by exquisite beauty and paddled beneath overhanging branches inhabited with monkeys, exotic birds, colorful butterflies and more.


We paddled for two to three hours down the sparkling, twisting waters. Halfway, we stopped on the river bank for a picnic feast of fruit, chips and sandwiches. The food was good and the meal provided time to chat with others, many of whom, like the other young people I've described, are out exploring the world. One British couple was five months into their six month honeymoon. Last night they were leaving for Corn Island (many young travelers have that on their itinerary) for a few weeks before finishing up in Cuba. Oh to be young again.
David and I shared one of the smaller rafts with a boat leader and Tom, a 35 year old Catholic priest from Bristol, England. When I mentioned to Tom that I was from Boston, I could see a flicker of a recognition in his face. It was unsaid but he surely understood that Boston was the center of last decade's Catholic Church scandal. It wasn't until later that David, an Irish Catholic himself, and I gently broached the subject with him. It was a brief conversation, mostly about the new church procedures aimed at curbing future child abuse.
We were back at the Marita by 4:30. After quick showers, all of us, except for Margaret again, met down on the balcony of David and Bill's cabin for beers and snacks. The time flew by until 7 p.m. when we went to the castle next door for dinner. The castle is actually a hostel, maybe the nicest one I've ever been in. It's new, spacious and clean and has a variety of private and dormitory rooms. It has a bar, a dining area, an indoor pool, a jacuzzi, a spectacular view, and more. If any of you plan to be in Boquete, I highly recommend it; the Bambuda Castle.
For dinner we were seated at the single large table on the balcony.


There was a nice cool mountain breeze. The six of us (Margaret remained in her cottage for the second straight night) had a lovely dinner delivered from an Italian restaurant in town. I continued to be the food contrarian. I had the vegetarian pasta. The others had the beef pizza. It was two-for-one ice beer night so we consumed quite a few of them.
Throughout the evening we were joined by various people including Dan, the owner from Calgary, Helga, the bartender/manger from Iceland and Ana, a volunteer employee from France. Ana had gone on the rafting trip with us and recommended we go to the hostel to eat. I'm really glad we did.
The men in our group mildly flirted with the Helga and Ana. It was hard not to. Helga, a beautiful 25 year old, spoke impeccable English, bantered with us about which rum drinks were most manly, drank a shot with us, and shared her story about how she came to work in this remote corner of the world. Ironically, Helga also knows Greta, one of Northeastern's former Icelandic soccer players who I know well. I connected with Greta on Facebook to share the coincidence. Small world.
Ana is a bookkeeper, restaurant server, yoga teacher and masseuse at the hostel. She was attentive to our group, pleasantly offering advice, inquiring about our cycling adventure, inviting us to her 6:50 a.m. yoga class (we couldn't attend because we needed to depart at 7:30) and participating in our many splintered conversations. We finished the night with a couple of rum drinks, something that I severely regretted this morning. It was another great evening.
We began today with a quick breakfast followed by a ten mile van ride. From there we hopped on our bikes, turned on a side road and immediately started pedaling uphill towards Baru volcano. The incline wasn't horribly steep but it kept going and going and going. The incline was ten miles long, without respite.
I pushed myself hard on the uphill to clear the cobwebs from the beer and rum. It worked. After an hour I was soaked in sweat but no longer felt foggy. I chugged lots of water, chowed down a few bananas and kept on pedaling, hard. Once I even turned around and rode back a mile just to punish myself further.
In total we road 30 mile, ascending 2,400 feet. For a ride that Fredder had billed as flat, 2,400 feet was a lot, or so it seemed in the hot, soupy humidity.
After dismounting, the bikes were loaded into a pickup truck and taken back to Boquete. We boarded the van for a six and a half hour ride to Panama City where we will get our fourth set of bikes tomorrow.
We stopped in the town of David for lunch. As usual, most of the group had a full plate of rice, beans, plantains, chicken or beef and an assortment of other stuff.
I opted for a yogurt (I broke up a health bar and mixed it in), a Fresca and a coffee negro (I wonder when I get home whether I'll stay with black coffee or switch back to coffee with milk). I also pulled a jar of peanut butter and a small box of crackers from my backpack. The yogurt and peanut butter was just what I wanted but everyone gave me crap about it. My food and internet habits have been a frequent topic of conversation since the beginning. Usually I take the ribbing in good fun, but not always. What I eat and how much use my iPhone can be a sensitive subject for me.
We are slated to arrive in Panama City at 6:30 p.m.


I imagine we will have a fun night on the town.
Tomorrow we will circle the city on bikes and finish up at the Panama Canal. The canal has always been on my bucket list. I can't wait to finally see it, one of the great man made wonders of the world.
Until tomorrow.
Jorge


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Location:Boquete, Panama

Day 13, Boquete

Boquete, Panama
Friday, April 21, 2017

It's Day 13. We are in Boquete, a well know travelers stop in the Panamanian mountains.
We are staying at the Villa Marita for two nights. Today is the second of our two "off" days. It's early morning. I'm on the dock of the main lodge,


watching the sunrise illuminate the volcano before me. A sight to behold. I'm enjoying another jungle concert of various wildlife; multiple species of birds, crickets, monkeys and more. I'm sipping my strong Panama coffee, black. It's the only way to drink it here. A rooster is crowing, a dog barking in the distance. I am as contented as I could possibly be. My favorite time of day, in this serene setting, overwhelmed by God's finest. I couldn't be more appreciative. A special thank you to Margot for her supportiveness in allowing me these long adventures without her.
Yesterday ride was a tough one; 23 miles in the heat up and down long steep low trafficked roads. I paced it well, going much slower than usual. Despite the conditions, I could have kept going for quite awhile. The quarts of water, bananas and pineapple helped a lot.


We were slated to go around 35 miles but Fredder cut it short. A couple of the others were struggling. A smart decision on his part.
We began riding around noon after a morning ferry and a three hour van ride on steep, tight winding roads. Thankfully, David had motion sickness pills (he's thought of everything). I get motion sickness quite easily. The pills really helped. Thank you David.
We arrived at the Villa Marita around 4:30 after stopping for lunch in Boquete town center. Rather than another big greasy meal, I went to the supermarket where I bought a yogurt, a health bar (if you can call it that) and a jar of peanut butter and crackers.
It was pouring rain so we didn't walk around much. I'm so happy that Intrepid Travel arranged for our accommodations to be outside the noisy center. The town was interesting but not a place to spend a lot of time.
The Marita only serves breakfast. Last night, all of us, except Margaret, hung out on the lobby balcony. We ordered out for pizza and drank the case of beer that Bill had bought in Boquete. It was a fun night of storytelling and laughs.
Though unspoken, not having to tiptoe around Margaret was evident to all.
I have a two room cottage to myself. The shower has hot water, a rarity on this trip. The view outside my sliding glass doors is incredible. Being in the mountains, it was cool at night. I left the windows open and listen to the wildlife. It was my best night sleep yet.
Today's off day was intended for everyone to do whatever they wanted, alone or in subgroups. Like our off day in Bocas Del Toro, we opted to do something together. At 9 a.m. we are being picked up for an all-day white water rafting trip. Should be fun. Bye for now.


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Location:Boquete, Panama

No biking today

Bocas Del Toro
Wednesday, April 1, 2016

Today was our first day without biking. Instead, we chartered a boat and went snorkeling. We began by visiting a dolphin habitat. It was fun to cruise the area with them circling around us.


Next we cozied up to the mangroves where lots of big, fat colorful starfish dotted the sea floor six feet below us. I'd never seen them that big before; a far cry from the dried up dead ones on the beaches of the outer Cape.
By mid-morning we were diving off the boat in the first of two coral reefs. The fish weren't as colorful or plentiful as I expected. Nonetheless, if you dived deep, you could see plenty of sea creatures living amongst the shelves. The water was bathtub warm and it was a gorgeous day. It was a nice change of pace.
We docked at a small island restaurant for lunch. From there we went to Bastimentos Island for a swim and quiet at Red Frog Beach. A beautiful beach that cost us $5 apiece.
Unfortunately, I had heard of the island before for all of the wrong reasons. In February, the 23 year old daughter of a childhood family friend was attacked and murdered on the trail to the adjacent beach.


It was a difficult place to visit. I couldn't stop thinking about the terror and pain she must have experienced during the attract. I'm told that she was an accomplished, adventurous, spirited soul with a zest for life. The world lost a beautiful soul that day. My deepest condolences to her loved ones.
We got back to our hotel around 4 where we had some down time before dinner. The dinner might have been my favorite yet. The restaurant was a run down


shack of a place but its pork burger with avocado, coconut, ginger and an assortment of other goodies was to die for.
We ended the night at a nearby bar where a couple from Minneapolis, maybe in their early forties, joined us. I sat next to the woman who had had way too many beers. At one point she referred to the story of the American woman being murdered on Bastimentos. Her hypothesis was that the story was fiction, created by the locals to keep tourists way. When I assured her that it was real and how I knew so, she turned ten shades of red. She profusely apologized. Within seconds however, I swear she forgot the conversation ever happened. She was quickly rattling on about hockey in Minnesota, wanting to buy a place in Panama and a bunch of other random stuff.
Tomorrow we head to Boquete. It's supposed to be amazing. Google it.
Getting there will involve a really tough 50K ride ending with a 1,700 meter ascent over 7K. Yikes.
Until then.




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Location:Bocas Del Toro,Panama

A day of snorkeling

Wednesday, April 19, 2017, 7 a.m.
Pocas Del Toro, Panama

Here is where we are for the next two days (see map); Pocas Del Toro, Panama,


an island about a 45 minute boat ride off the coast. It's another funky destination spot with beautiful beaches, restaurants, live music and lots of people, travelers and locals, wandering around. It's in places like these that you see 20 something backpackers from Europe and Australia. They tend to be out on the road for many months at a time, sometimes years, staying at hostels, meeting up with each other, exploring the world. A nomad existence that looks fun at times, aimless at others. I could see doing it for a few months but would probably wear out after that.
Today is a non-riding day for us. Everyone is free to do what they want but we are sticking together. We have hired a boat to take us snorkeling. We'll be going to a couple of different reefs and stopping at a couple of other islands. It's stifling hot so it will be good to be out on the water. Of course we'll need to be relentless in our sum protection. I'll need to buy another hat. Somehow I lost mine, along with a few other things along the way.
We arrived last night after a night in the seaside town of Puerto Viejo. Puerto Viejo had the same "vibe" as this place, artsie, a bit touristy, full of young travelers with a population of poor natives trying to get by anyway they can.
During our sweltering 35 mile, challenging, mostly up hill ride yesterday, we stopped at a local cocoa farm where we were able to take turns making chocolate. Chocolate making is a more intensive process than I had anticipated; roasting,


shucking, grinding, and more. The end product, without sugar, was still pretty good. We sliced open bananas length-wise, wiped the chocolate on the flat sides, put them back together and


enjoyed the banana/chocolate treat. While there we also got a nature tour, seeing poisonous red frogs and shooting a homemade bow and arrow. They tried to sell us pottery but the stuff was too fragile and honestly, was pretty unimpressive.
We then continued to the Panama border where we said goodbye to our driver, dropped the bikes, paid Costa Rican exit fees, filled out departure forms, walked across a long bridge into Panama (it felt like we were crossing a DMZ), waited in long line to get through Panama customs, filled out more forms, walked across the road to pay an entrance fee, and then found our new driver and bus. What an operation!
Monday's riding was nearly 40 miles, but it was nearly all tarmac, a nice reprieve from the rocky, dusty dirt roads of the previous week.
Upon our arrival, David and I walked two blocks to the beach for a sunset dip in the Caribbean. Beyond gorgeous!
Lunches along the way have been sketchy.


We tend to stop at places that have glass sneeze protectors above pans of chicken, pork, beef, fish, beans and rice. The stuff usually looks like it has sat there for days, grease coagulating around the sides, flies buzzing about. I usually refrain and opt instead for some crackers, or the like. Others are more adventurous with their eating. No one has gotten sick yet. Thankfully.
I'm off to snorkel. Have a good day everyone.


.


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Location:Bocas Del Toro, Panama

A Massage and a Facial

Easter Sunday, April 16, 2017, 11 p.m.
La Fortuna, Costa Rica

Pretty much an easy recovery day today. It started with another breakfast with Sandra and her two daughters. This time, Maripessa, the three year old, hopped on a stool next to me,


nibbling on her fruit. She begged her mom, Sandra, for coffee and after some half-hearted resistance, Sandra caved and gave it to her. Coffee is a staple in Costa Rica but three might be a tad young for it. At least that is what my American sensibility tells me.
After a long set of thank you's and farewells, we left to pick up the others. Once again we were late. I felt bad about it but there was little I could do.
After an hour bus ride we were dropped off at a roadside cafe where we got the bikes off the top of the bus.


It was still raining and knowing that we had only 20K of tarmac riding, we decided to sit with a cup of coffee and wait it out. A smart move. The rain stopped shorty thereafter. The sun came out. The humidity skyrocketed. We road for about two hours and after some extremely steep climbs, we pulled into La Fortuna.
Along the way I saw my first sloth.


Odd looking creature that barely moves.
An unimpressive beast.
We waited for check in time at our hotel by having a big lunch down the road. It was about 1:30 when we arrived at the hotel. A quick shower and then we met in the lobby to determine next steps. Chrystal, Margaret and John opted to go zip lining and the hot baths. Dave and Bill picked up a six pack of beer and headed for their room. I went for the supreme massage package next door which included a 75 minute massage and a facial ( my first facial ever). Though the facial was nothing special, the massage was terrific, well worth the $35. I returned to my room where I intended to read and nap. However, I heard Bill and Dave out on their balcony so I decided to join them for a couple of beers instead. There is plenty of time to sleep when I retire.
We met the others at 7 p.m. for dinner and headed out to a restaurant for a decent meal, a mango rum drink and a weird but tasty pistachio, coconut cream cake.
Dave, Bill, Crystal and I went out for a couple of beers afterwards at a "craft beer" place. We were a bit gossipy and I felt bad about it. However, I think some venting was necessary. We were back to the hotel by 10:45 and I was in bed a few minutes later.
There is a large group of high school kids from Milbury, MA at our hotel. They are a little noisy but as these things go, not too bad. Luckily the white noise app on my iPhone blocks out almost anything.
Were off for the Caribbean coast tomorrow. It's supposed to be gorgeous. I can't wait.
- George



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Location:Calle 468,Fortuna,Costa Rica

Happy Easter, Everyone

Sunday, April 16th, 5:45 a.m.
Juanilama, Costa Rica

Happy Easter, everyone.
As I said in my toast to the locals after the dance last night, I miss being with my family on Easter. However, if I can't be with them, there is no place I'd rather be than spending it here in this beautiful country with these wonderful people. These folks have been incredibly welcoming. We've eaten together, washed dishes together, prayed together and danced together. Four nice ways to interact, don't you think?
I'm lying in bed with the window open listening to the pouring rain. It rained hard overnight and the forecast has more in store for the next few days, at least here in Costa Rica. I'm not sure what the conditions will be in Panama.
Last night was the second I spent at the home of Sandra and her family. It's just Freddie, Antonio and me here. Antonio is sleeping and eating on the bus. He prefers it that way. The others are staying with a family down the road. How lucky am I. I'm in this nice house and getting to talk with Sandra, via Freddy, enjoying her children, and having a bedroom to myself.
Oddly, Sandra's husband disappears whenever we arrive home. He wasn't at the dinner-dance on Friday night, he wasn't at breakfast yesterday and he stayed home when we went to the Saturday evening Easter Mass, the community dinner and the night time party. It seems strange but is not for me to judge. The husband at the other house has been the same way.
We had a leisurely breakfast yesterday, just Freddie, Sandra and me. She served fresh mango juice, eggs, bananas, plantains and fresh, hand-dripped Costa Rican coffee. Delicious. We had such a nice meal together that Freddy, Antonio and I were 30 minutes late in picking up the others.
Mid-morning we took an hour bus ride to the Cano Negro Wildlife Reserve. The Reserve is home to monkeys, sloths, birds, caiman, alligators, crocodiles, "Jesus Christ" lizards (famous for their ability to run on water for extended periods of time before sinking.) We took a 90 minute tour and saw all of those things and more.
It was amazing. Bird watching is Fredder's passion. He pointed out dozens of species along the way and not once did he refer to his book. He knew them all by name.



There were dozens of caiman and many alligators and crocks. Our little boat pulled along side many of them. We were way too close for my comfort, a mere few feet at times.
Afterwards, we had a nice lunch at the local restaurant. From there we biked a short 20 kilometers back to the main road.



Given the short distance, John and I aired it out. He is an animal. I biked as hard as I could, staying with him for five miles. Then he kicked it into a another level. I couldn't respond. He finished well ahead of me. Hopefully I'll get another shot at him this week. The road was extremely rocky. I think my brain is still rattling around in my skull.
When we returned, I took a shower and then Sandra laid out some coffee, pancakes and sour cream for a late afternoon snack. She's an angel. She also did my laundry (for a tiny fee). That was an act of true altruism. Not even I would have touched that putrid stuff.
An extra bonus; I've never seen underwear folded so nicely.
The 90 minute Easter Mass was simple but lovely. I didn't understand a word of it but that didn't matter. It was heartfelt. I felt connected spiritually, thinking mostly of my family, Molly's impending wedding and how lucky I am to lead the life I do.
The church is a single room structure with a corrugated tin roof, half height iron rod walls with crosses painted white, and a cement floor. There were 16 pews, mostly filled with restless children.
The kid's art donned the walls. A solo guitarist played Central American folk music and a camp fire crackled just outside the door. Very peaceful. Juanilama is a tight knit community and the church plays a big part in it. None of the others in the bike group went to the service. It's too bad. They missed something special.
The service was followed by another communal dinner and then two more hours of dancing. John, David and I danced most of the night with our ad hock dance instructor and with local women who's husbands, like the others, were elsewhere.



We learned some more salsa steps, the moranga and a couple of other dances. Our shirts were sopping by the end of the night. It was a blast. I wish we could gave persuaded Bill and Crystal to join. Margaret stayed in her room all night. Something was clearly bothering her on the bus ride back from the Wildlife Reserve. I hope she can resolve it and let it go. This place is too special to spend time stewing.
I have lots of packing to do before breakfast so adios for now.
It will be sad to bid farewell to our wonderful hosts but it's time to move on.
Happy Easter everyone!



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Location:Juanilama, Costa Rica

Salsa lesson

April 14, 10 p.m.
Juanilama, Costa Rica

The climate in Costa Rica has been much different than that in Nicaragua; 10 degrees cooler and unseasonably wet. It rained off and on all day today. At times it was torrential, which was fun to ride in, other than it making the rocks more slippery.
We only road 24 miles today. The roads were steep and rocky and we did slip a lot, especially going uphill. But, other than a couple



of falls in the group, we made it through unscathed.
About ten miles in, we stopped at a hot bath for a quick dip. The place was packed, but the bath was well worth the crowds, and it was perfectly timed. We had just ridden through the hardest pour of the day. We were a bit chilled.



The bathtub like water was the perfect remedy.
We arrived in Juanilana (pop. 300) for our family stay around 4 p.m. and were greeted at the community hut by our two hostesses and a number of other women. They served us a feast of tortillas, omelets, sour cream, coffee and pineapple juice. Delicious!
We were then split between the two houses where we showered and napped, before returning to the community area for dinner and dancing.
After taking my shower, I mistakenly used a pink blanket as a towel. I thought it was a big beach towel. Yikes. I really hope it drys out before morning so I can fold it and put it back on the shelf before our hostess notices.
When we arrived for dinner, a troop of eight child dancers performed Costa Rican dances for us.



They were terrific. One of the young girls pulled David on to the dance floor. He was willing, confident and quite good. I was impressed.
After the dancing, we gathered around the cooking table and learned how to make tortillas. It reminded me of my high school days when I threw pizzas at Valenti's across from the Boston Garden.




You start with a piece of dough, albeit a much smaller one, and kneed it from the inside out. It's harder than it looks. Most of ours were lopsided but they sufficed.
After we made them, the women placed them on the frying pan. While we waited for them to cook, we were served a terrific black bean soup with carrots, potatoes, plantains and onions. Yum.
When the tortillas were done, they combined them with rice and hard boiled eggs. They then served them to us with big glasses pineapple juice. A great dinner all around.
When I saw one of our hostesses washing dishes, I stacked ours, brought them over and joined her. She washed, I rinsed and her daughter dried.





I didn't realize til later that my helping with the dishes had made an impression. As we were leaving, one of the locals, with a Fredder as translator, told me that this was an act of great respect to his community. For an outsider to stand along side one of them and perform chores, was humbling and showed a spirit of giving that they rarely saw from an outsider. Geez. Who knew. I'll have to keep doing this.
After dinner there was more dancing. I got pulled on the floor by a young girl. It was fun but I couldn't keep the beat very well.
Later, I asked one of the guys there to give me a salsa lesson. It was difficult, especially with 35 people watching, including my fellow bikers.




By the end of the lesson I started to get the hang of one basic step. It made me want to take more lessons when I get home.
We have a 7:30 breakfast tomorrow followed by some sightseeing and an easy day of riding, or so Fredder says. We'll see.
Buenas noches.
-Jorge





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Location:San Carlos,Costa Rica

We're at the wrong hotel

April 14, 2017, 5:30 a.m.
Hotel Arenal Vista
El Castillo, Costa Rica

I'm sitting on my porch overlooking Lake Arenal.





Impressively, there are four American high school cross-country athletes, boys, doing hill work up the long steep driveway. A kid with a backward blue baseball cap is leading the way. Three of the four removed their t-shirts after two laps. They've already done ten laps. I wonder how long they'll be at it. I'll ask them at breakfast.
There is a cool breeze coming off the lake. There is a slight drizzle and every species of bird must be living in the jungle behind me. If you listen carefully, you can hear them in the attached audio file. Birds and Howler monkeys You might even be able to hear the howler monkeys in the distant background. What a symphony!
Yesterday began with a whimper and ended with a bang. Where do I begin? I'll try from the beginning.
We met for breakfast at the usual 7 a.m. There was no food selection to be made. They served us rice, beans and scrambled eggs. Take it or leave it. I took it, along with some tasty, strong Nicaraguan coffee which I refilled three times.
We loaded our bags on the van at 8 and hopped in. We were transported from San Juan Del Sur to the Costa Rica border. It took us about 20 minutes to get through customs. They shuffled us from one person to another, each wanting to see our passport, one asking for my declaration form. I was curious as to weather someone would cross-check the passport number on the form so I wrote in a made-up one. No one blinked.
We re-boarded the van and drove another hour south where we had lunch and met up with the guy who brought our new bikes. Disappointing, these bikes are not nearly as good as the ones we had in Nicaragua and we will have them for the next seven days. They are a no name Chinese brand, only 21 speeds, cheap components and mechanical brakes. They gave me a medium instead of a large. That might not seem like much but it is. Even with the seat in its highest position, I couldn't extend my legs, making it difficult to get any momentum, especially on those steep rocky uphills. Thankfully the bike rental guy is bringing me a new one this morning.
We ate a long lunch again to avoid the peak heat. We were on the road by 2:30. Ordinarily we would have had plenty of time to make it to the hotel by the 5:30 sunset. We were first delayed by a couple of wipe outs. On one, going up a steep incline, John couldn't clip out fast enough and he fell sideways, right into Crystal who then topped into the ditch on the side of the road. She got pretty banged up, long scratches on her right leg, a deep cut on her knee. She's a real trooper though. She cleaned her wounds quickly, applied a band aid and off she went.
Not much further down the road, when we had stopped for a little water, Margaret let out a big scream. She had been bitten by a bug. It took awhile to get some ointment out of the van but once we did, and applied it to Margaret's arm, she felt better.
We stopped a couple of times along the way to admire toucans and other birds. We had lost some time but so far so good.
Along the way we needed to cross four rivers. The first three were about 50 feet wide and shin deep. These were easy to cross but our feet and shoes got soaking wet.
At about 5:20, shortly before sunset, we encounter a much different river. It was 750 feet wide, at times knee deep, and a mildly strong current. Our van led the way. It got stuck about a quarter of the way across. We tried hard to push it but it would not budge. Oh boy.


Given our remaining distance, the impending darkness and the fact that we had no bike lights, we abandoned the van and our driver, Antonio and our bags.
We biked for another 30 minutes, the last 15 of which was in the pitch dark. The intermittent cars weren't expecting us. This was jarring for them and for us. Their approach was too close for comfort.
We reached the top of a hill where we stopped to gain our bearings. Fredder then realized that we had missed the turn a couple of miles back. Ha. Yet another obstacle to overcome.
We backtracked and finally found the turn. The last quarter mile was incredibly steep. In first gear, pumping my legs as hard as I could, my heart pounding and my lungs sucking air, I made it without having to get off the bike. Phew. A good way to end an interesting day. Or so we thought.
We ordered a round of beers, Dave joined a French Canadien girl for a game of pool, and we received good news that our bags were on the way. Antoni had called a friend with a pickup truck who towed the van back to the original side. They had unloaded the bags into the truck and using its four-wheel drive, were able to make it across. Antonio will drive the van the long way around this morning.
As we started our second round of beers Fredder approached and in his soft Nicaraguan accent sheepishly said; "I'm sorry to have to say this guys but we're at the wrong hotel. Ours is back down the road a bit." I thought he was joking. The others looked incredulous. When it was clear that he wasn't kidding, John let loose on him. I was taken aback by the severity John's reaction. I had been amused by the absurdity of the situation, feeling that this error was an ironic topping to our trail of mishaps. Not John. He was seething, demanding that Fredder pay for our beers. An odd demand, I thought. Fredder tried apologizing again, said that he was willing to pay for the beers, and added that he "wanted to talk it through and wished that John wouldn't be so angry." John said "let's finish this discussion outside", which they did. What was said after that, I don't know. I think it remains unresolved.
The tension dissipated and I joined Dave and the Canadien woman at the pool table. Someone decided we should have dinner at that hotel while Fredder arranged for our transport to our hotel. Great. When I suggested that we ride bikes instead, that went over like fart in church. Yikes.
We had a great dinner there. I had a pizza and a large bowl of delicious chicken soup. Yum. After more beers and laughs, the bags arrived, fully in tact. Antonio had even discovered that a few of us had left out sunglasses in the passenger door pocket. Wonderful.
After a little difficulty figuring out how to split the bill, we left. It was a short ride to out hotel. Bill, Dave and I had a nightcap at the small bar before heading off to our rooms for a shower and a some sorely needed sleep.
Today we have about a 35 mile ride where our destination is a home stay in the rural community of San Juan Ilama. We will be sleeping there for a couple of nights. The forecast is for rain all day today. My shoes are already soaked so that doesn't matter. My only concern is the wet rocks on the steep terrain. I dealt with that on last year's trip and it can be tricky. I have some scars to prove it.
We have a late 8 a.m. breakfast this morning. I'm going to sit here for a little while enjoying this spectacular view and listening to the bird concert some more. I couldn't be more content. I just wish Margot was hear to enjoy it too.


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Location:Lake Arenal, Costa Rica

Yesterday was tough!

Yesterday was tough! We tackled 50 miles of difficult riding in furnace-like conditions. I drank nearly two gallons of water along the way and I didn't pee once. The water helped but by the end of the day, the heat had taken its toll. I was completely depleted. When we arrived at the hotel, the others headed out for beers (they consume a lot of it), I went straight to my room for a shower and a nap.
Disappointingly, this hotel is not at the standard of the others. My bed takes up 90 percent of the room and the shower's stream was barely a dribble. I cleaned and rinsed as best I could and then crashed. 90 minutes later my alarm went off. I ran to meet the others for our appointed 7 p.m. dinner. They were still drinking when I got there.
Most organized bike trips have lots of snacks, drinks and fruit at intervals along the way. This trip is managed by Intrepid. Yesterday we were offered one slice of watermelon in the morning and a granola bar in the afternoon. That's it. Fredder, our leader, said that if we wanted more than that we needed to buy it ourselves. Bad form. Conditions like these require lots of hydration and sustenance. They should be offering tons more.
Yesterday's riding started at 7 a.m. following a quick breakfast. We made a 25 mile loop around Madera Volcano, the smaller of the two volcanos on the island. The terrain was difficult, steep dirt roads with lots of rocks.





My riding in Nepal last year helped a lot. I was well prepared for it.
The volcano and the adjacent crater lake, were beautiful. Along the way we saw lots of howler monkeys. They were quite a site as they sat on tree limbs mocking us with loud howls and constant jibber jabber.
After circling the volcano, we stopped for a sorely needed swim at Ojo de Agua, a little lagoon formed by the constantly flowing water from the crater lake. (Animation of yesterday's ride) . It was crowded but well worth the stop.
From there we headed to the boat for the return to San Jorge and an additional 25 mile ride to San Juan Del Sur, where we are staying for the night. The town is one big party this week, as are most Central American towns, in honor of Holy Week. It felt like a mini Rio Carnival; loud music, street vendors and scantily dress young people. I think we will be seeing a lot of this this week.
On Ometepe, while stopped along the side of the road, a guy named Jake pulled up on the 150cc motorcycle he had rented for the day. We chatted a bit. He's 30 and lives in London. It took some coaxing before he admitted that he's actually an American living in London. He and his wife are on a two year journey. They certainly are not roughing it. They started their adventure by taking the Queen Mary from London to Alaska. From their they drove a rented Air Stream to Mexico where they picked up a 4Runner. They'll be driving that to the tip of Patagonia, staying in Airbnb's along the way. Nice life.
Yesterday was the last day of riding this bike. We enter Costa Rica today and will be leaving these ones behind. Too many taxes to bring them through.
I've been riding a Cannondale 29" mountain bike. It's an aluminum hardtale, 21 speeds with mid-range Shimamo components. It rides like a charm. On our first day, Fredder told us to become one with our bikes. I have. This trusty stead is smooth, changes gears quickly and has a comfortable saddle. The front suspension takes a big dent out of the jarring downhills. I will miss it a lot.
We're off to Costa Rica.
Adios Nicaragua.




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I met the cooolest couple today

Ometepe Island, Lake Nicaragua
April 11, 2017
10:15 p.m.

I met the cooolest couple today. We are on the island of Ometepe. We arrived mid-day after taking a 90 minute boat ride from San Jorge (has a nice ring to it, doesn't it). After lunch, we ventured out for a 20 mile ride, around Volcano Conception. Much of the ride was up steep, challenging hills. At one point, we stopped for a sorely needed respite in the little town of Altagracia. Parked just next to us was an old Volkswagen camper van and inside were Michael and Sarah, a twenty something year old couple from Colorado. The were more than seven months into their drive down to Tierra Del Fuego, the southern most tip of Patagonia.
I was only able to talk to them for about ten minutes but was awestruck. They are living my lifelong dream. The camper is in great shape, with a pop up roof, a fridge, a foldout bed, electrical outlets and more. They do much of their own auto repairs, write a blog (http://www.kruisinkoru.com), enjoy meeting people and clearly are loving their simple, adventurous lifestyle. Incredible. I could have talked to them all day.
Later, I ended the night, after our group dinner, chatting with an older Australian couple. They were in their mid 70's and were on a four month swing through Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Columbia and Belize. They told tales of their younger-year adventures riding the weeklong Great Australian Bike race, trekking the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, touring in India and exploring other continents. They are avid bird watchers, something I didn't really relate to but loved hearing about with their enthusiasm and their rich Aussie accents.
This morning began with an early breakfast. I had oatmeal again. Truth be told, I don't think there has been more than ten days in the last two years where I haven't started the day with oatmeal. Today I prepared it a little differently. I mixed in plantains, star fruit, passion fruit, mango and papaya. It was to die for. I also had fresh pineapple juice, strong black coffee and toast with marmalade. A feast for a king. A great way to start the day.
After breakfast we took a leisurely ride by Lake Nicaragua, before hopping in the van for a 90 minute ride to San Jorge, a village about 10K from Rivas, where we caught a boat to Ometepe Island. It was a choppy ride but surprisingly I didn't get seasick.
There was some excitement however, as a young teen, far from shore, had capsized his row boat. His oars had floated away.





He was tethered to another row boat that had come to his rescue. When we got close, he swam to our boat, pulling with him the rope to his skiff. The poor kid. He was completely wiped when he came aboard. He slouched to the deck, shaking, happy to be alive, or so it seemed. I gave him my Kind bar. It felt like a pathetic gesture but that's all I had to give. He accepted it with a nod and he whispered gracias.
Once on Ometepe we headed to a restaurant for lunch. We sat there for a couple of hours, waiting for the scorching midday sun to wane. At 2:30 we mounted the bikes again and headed east, up the hills and around Volcano Conception.
We arrived at the hotel around 5 p.m. I took a quick dip before the 5:30 sunset and headed back to my room for a shower and some quiet time. In the meantime, the rest of the group met for drinks and snacks. They were still there when I arrived for the 7 p.m. dinner reservation.
It was another challenging but rewarding day. As usual the best part was pushing myself on the cycle and meeting new people, young and old alike. I hope I can do this for many more years.
We mount the bikes at 6 a.m. tomorrow. We need to consume the miles before it gets too hot and to be at the ferry in plenty of time for the 3:30 departure.
So fun!
George


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Location:Ometepe, Nicaragua

Crater Lake

The only Spanish I remember is the swears. I was told today that my accent when swearing is impeccable.
It's not a surprise. I spent a college semester with 25 Americans in Mexico. Tom French, my roommate, had spent his childhood living in Mexico. He used those words every day. They are in embedded in my memory.
I hope to broaden my Spanish vocabulary on this trip and then dive deeper when I retire. And by the way, my retirement is imminent. My last day of work is June 30th.
I'm excited, but also nervous about the big transition. I've been thinking about doing this for a few years now and finally got up the nerve to do it. I just want to make sure that I can fill my time productively.
John, 61, another biker on this trip, decided to retire last year. A few days before his last day he changed his mind and asked his boss if he could stay. Thankfully, they had yet to find his replacement so the answer was yes. John had found that he and his wife Margaret, who also is on the trip, weren't aligned in how this would work. She wanted her daytime routines to remain the same and couldn't see that happening with John about. She also works out of the house (she sells Avon products) and wanted quiet time doing it. I hope they are able to make it work out.
What an amazing day yesterday was. 36 miles of cruising through different terrains; city streets, Jeep roads, single track and cobblestone back roads. It was hot. Really hot. But I was ready for it. I was relentless in applying sunscreen. I also drank water every 15-30 minutes. I estimated I drank two gallons through the day.
We departed at 7:30 after a quick breakfast. Fredder took us on an hour-long tour of Granada, stopping at various churches, a fort, an old railroad station, a graveyard and some old neo-classical houses. We then left Granada, ascending a long uphill for about an hour. Against Fredder's wishes, I went out ahead, trying to get a hill workout. Unfortunately, I missed the turn. Fredder had to send the van out in search of me. Thankfully, the van caught me just a couple of miles ahead where I had stopped for water. I only delayed the group by 15 minutes or so. I felt bad about it and will try to be less troublesome going forward.


The turn took us up a long steep cobblestone road. It was challenging, but rewarding. I was glad that I had made all those trips up Pegan Hill in Dover. That prepared me for these climbs.
When we emerged from a clearing at the top of a hill I was blown away. Below us was a crater lake, one of the most spectacular sites I've ever seen. The dark blue waters lay nested in an extinct volcano. The sky was clear and a mountain range hovered on the horizon.



After taking photos, I wandered down the way a bit. I needed some alone time to soak it in. It was spellbinding.
From there we took an optional ride down a steep four mile road, knowing the we would have to return back the same way. It was worth it. We arrived at the water's edge at a restaurant/beach where we stayed for a couple of hours, eating and swimming in the lake we had admired from above. What an incredible spot it was.
The return climb was everything we feared; hot, humid, steep and long. The conditions were brutal. Two of our riders met their match. They had to hop in the van.
We turned at the hilltop. From there it was another 12 miles back to Granada on bumpy, mostly peaceful, dirt back roads. There were rickety shacks along the way with families hanging out and kids playing about. There were no cars. That stretch was the best of the day's riding. Protected by tree cover, I was able to mogul down the roads, practice my handling without fear of other vehicles. It was wonderful.
We were back at the hotel and poolside by 4:30 where we hung out for an hour. I then took an hour nap before meeting up again at 7 p.m. for dinner. It was a great day, ended by another night of good food and conversation.
Today we head south. I can't wait.




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Location:Calle El Caimito,Granada,Nicaragua

We start riding today

April 10, 2017, 6:10 a.m
Granada, Nicaragua


"It's hot. Damn hot! Real hot! Hottest things is my shorts. I could cook things in it."
So said Robin Williams in "Good Morning Vietnam."
I'm sure he would say the same if he were here. This is the time of year where it is 95 degrees and humid. Everyday. No rain, maybe a wisp of clouds. Brutal and we haven't even been on the bikes yet. That starts today. It will be interesting.
Yesterday, after a quiet day





of walking the streets, touring a couple of churches and dodging the sun, I returned to the hotel for a dip in the pool and a short nap. At 6 p.m. the group gathered for the first time. As is customary, we sat in the lobby and took turns introducing ourselves. There are three others my age, a couple from the U.K. (John and Margaret) and a gent from Calgary (Bill). There is a twenty something women from California (Crystal) and a 30 something Irishman (David) currently living in London. Everyone has done a lot of traveling, either trekking or biking. All seem to be experienced bikers.
Our leader, Fredder, is Nicaraguan, as is our driver Edgar. Fredder explained multiple times that the riders are supposed to stay together. He doesn't want anyone getting lost. This will be a challenge for me. I've tended to stray ahead in the past, trying to push myself.
After inspecting our bikes we headed out to dinner. Fredder asked whether we wanted authentic Nicaraguan food, which of course, we all said yes. I was surprised then that we went to the touristy street where I had been the two nights before. The waiters set up a table for us at one of the popular outdoor cafes. The food was indeed Nicaraguan but no more so than the other touristy places. My chicken fajita was good, not great. It was the same as you'd get at any Mexican restaurant back home.
It turns out that Fredder's meal was free. That is what I figured. He worked out a deal that his meal was on the house if he brings a group there. Given the average salary of $2,000 in Nicaragua, I can empathize with deal. On the other hand, I felt a little manipulated. Either way, we had a nice time and began getting to know each other. We drank quite a lot of beer. Fredder talked about the country's history and culture. We told some stories and shared some laughs. It was a nice first night together.
We'll be meeting shortly for an early breakfast and then heading out for a 45 kilometer ride exploring the area. We plan to finish late morning to avoid the midday heat. We'll return for an afternoon bus tour of Granada and a trip to the market. We'll spend our last night at this hotel and then head south towards Costa Rica tomorrow. I can't wait.


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Location:Calle El Caimito,Granada,Nicaragua

Bubbling Lava

Sunday, April 30th
5:30 a.m.
Granada Town Square

I woke up with a sunburn. Not a bad one but bad enough to give me a scare. I had lathered the sunscreen on yesterday but 95 degree clear days require special attention, especially when you're out on the water or walking along the beach. The real diligence begins today. Margot, I promise.
Today marks the official kickoff of Holy Week, the Semana Santa. Even at this hour, fireworks are flaring, periodic explosions jarring the town. I'm sitting at a park table next to the 19th century Spanish cathedral, a striking colonial structure marked by its yellow and white bell towers and Mediterranean tile dome. In a couple of hours this place is sure to be hopping. For now, I am enjoying the peace as a few people are sweeping the streets and vendors are setting up their craft and food carts for what surely will be a busy day.
I'm feeling depleted from yesterday's adventures. The good kind of depleted, as in having had a full rewarding day. It began with a 5:30 sunrise, a hotel breakfast and then a taxi ride to a marina down the lake a bit. I rented a kayak for two hours and ventured out into the choppy waters of Lake Nicaragua. The woman at the boat shop tried to persuade me to join a guided tour. She said that due to the strong underwater currents, I would be better off with someone who knew exactly where to go.
I was adamant in my refusal. She acquiesced and then forewarned me that heading out would be ok but paddling back would be a challenge. She cautioned me not to get too close to the islands as there are lots of large rocks just below the surface.
I thanked her for her advice and headed out on my solo adventure. A group paddle just didn't sound appealing. Nor did the additional expense. I wanted to explore by myself.
It was really fun. I was careful to follow which inlets the local fisherman were taking. There were indeed lots of shoals but I was careful to keep a close eye for those too.
The one thing I didn't anticipate was how wet my day pack would get. My Bluetooth earbuds in the side pocket got drenched and they short circuited. Too bad. I really liked those things.
The water was indeed choppy but nothing I couldn't handle. The view ahead was as far as I could see. To my right the mountains kissed the the lakeside. Fisherman in their wood carved boats trolled their lines. Dozens of little islands were scattered some with run down sheds on them. Others with expansive abodes. The mixture seemed odd given the islands were the same size and views were identical. Maybe gentrification in its early stages?
The two hours flew buy. I got a few blisters and had a good workout from fighting the tides. A great way to start the trip.





I opted to walk rather that take a cab back. It took about 90 minutes, most of it along the shore. It was fun watching the families enjoying their Saturday picnics and the





teenage boys playing beach soccer. I wondered why the girls were just watching. This is the 21st century after all.
Back in town I stopped for lunch at the Garden Cafe before heading back to the hotel. Abbott, the front desk clerk, suggested that I would enjoy a trip to the Masaya Volcano. By now it was 3:30. The van was leaving in 30 minutes. Since I had woken up early, I declined, opting for a dip in the pool and a nap on a comfy lounge chair.
While in the pool I changed my mind. I knew I would regret not seeing the volcano and that I should push myself. I could hang poolside anywhere. I thought; George get your butt up and go to the volcano. So I did.
Th volcano was an hour's drive away. Once there, we had to wait an hour to get it. It was worth it. We climbed to a perch above the erupting volcano. The steam was rising, the lava was bubbling, making a loud gurgling sound. Amazing.
We had 13 people crammed into the van. I was sitting next to two young women, one a 22 year old from Holland, the other a 26 year old from Austria. They were both traveling solo through Central America. One had been on the road for three months and the other for two. Neither would be returning home anytime soon.
This is common for Europeans but it worries me. When I asked if they ever felt unsafe, they looked at me as if I had asked a really dumb question. I opted not to share the story of a family friend who's daughter was murdered recently in Panama doing essentially what they were doing. Had I shared the gory details, it might have shaken some sense into the. Please girls, be careful out there.
By the time I got home, it was after eight. A bite, an after dinner rum and then to bed. I slept like a baby.
The bike group gathers for the first time at 6 p.m. tonight. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone. Until then, who knows. I'm sure it will be a fulfilling day.



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Location:Granada Parque Central

Uno dollar, por favor

Saturday, April 8, 2017
Granada, Nicaragua
5:30 a.m.

Palm trees rustling in the gentle breeze, sparkling blue waves lapping the shore, a jogger lost in thought, the sun rising over Lake Nicaragua. This is what I have been waiting for. It's been a long, wet, cold month in Boston. I've been consumed by prepping and rehearsing for Thursday's presentation to the Board of Trustees, writing six performance appraisals, doing my taxes, and drafting a wedding speech.
There is a lot more work to be done on the speech but the other stuff is done. Now I can relax and enjoy the next 17 days, exploring and biking through the varied terrains of Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. I can't wait.
I arrived yesterday. Other than some traffic getting out of Managua, the trip was easy. It was the first time I've had a driver waiting outside the airport with my name on a cardboard sign. I felt like a big shot.
Miguel, my driver, spoke no English. We exchanged superficial pleasantries for a little while. The next thing I knew, we were in Granada pulling up to the Hotel Patio Del Malinche. I had slept for nearly 90 minutes. That 3 a.m. wake up had taken its toll.
I dropped my bag, threw on some shorts and headed out to explore. What a fun few hours, wandering the neighborhoods and markets, all the while people watching.
Being the beginning of Holy Week, there was a processional of the devoted,


carrying likenesses of Jesus and Mary around the town squad. It was similar to what we experienced in Spain a few years ago.
Around 7 p.m., I found a nice roof top bar where I ordered a panini and a margarita, and listen to a young man singing beautiful Spanish folks songs. I couldn't have been more content.
Around 9, I returned to the hotel, allowed the bartender to coax me into a shot of seven year old Nicaraguan rum before calling it a night.
The rum didn't live up to the Cuban standards of a few months ago. It was still quite good (the bartender said I would have to try the 12 year old rum tomorrow night). It was a nice way to finish the day, one I had been awaiting for so long.
This bike trip was organized by Intrepid Travel. I'm told there are five other riders. I know nothing about them. We meet at 6 p.m. tomorrow night. Until then, I have two days and a night to further explore by myself. Perfect!
As I sit lake side, an older man just walked by. I said "buenos dias". He smiled, looked over at the rising sun, spread his arms wide, and declared; "magnifico". I said; "Si" and pointed to my iPad as if to say that I was writing about it. He took this as an invitation to join me on the small bench. I would have preferred to keep writing in solitude, but I was OK with it. One of my favorite parts of these trips in conversing with folks, locals and fellow travelers alike.
Most people, when they realize I don't speak their language adapt, switching to a syntax of individual works, hoping that I will recognize them, especially when combined with hand signals. Not this guy. He continued in full sentences. I'm pretty sure he asked me what I was doing in Nicaragua, where I was from, where I was staying, how long I would be here... all the standard stuff.
I couldn't tell his age. His dark brown skin was leathered and wrinkled. He had fewer than half his teeth left. His crumpled straw hat and dirt-stained kaki shirt looked like they hadn't been removed in years.
It wasn't long before he asked; "Uno dollar, por favor ". A request for money always changes the dynamic. Instead of friendly banter, the relationship becomes one of tourist and begger. That bummed me out. I simply responded "no", trying to regain our previous footing. His interest disappeared. He sat for a minute or two, now in complete silence. He then got up, shook my hand and meandered away. Too bad.
It's time for me to head back to the Patio Del Malinche for the included coffee, fruit and yogurt.
I have no idea what the rest of the day will bring but I can't wait.
Hasta manana.


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Location:Granada, Nicaragua